“in the early morning, when the storm ceased, we made the horizontal traverse of which cassin writes in his note. then two rappels landed us in the great central couloir. there a poorly-defined arete, sheltered from stonefall, lead to the summit. It was midday when we arrived, to meet two climbers who had come up the ordinary way on the south flank. After such struggle we rejoiced in the presence of other humans...”
- Gaston Rebuffat, from ‘Starlight and Storm’ (1954)
“During the next three hours i am aware of myself no more. I am one with space and time. Nevertheless i keep moving. Every time the blue sky shows through the thick clouds, i believe i see the summit, am there. But still there are snow and stones above me. The few rocks that rise out of the snow are greeny-grey, shot through here and there with brighter streaks. Ghostlike they stir in the wispy clouds... Where is the summit?”
- Reinhold Messner, on his 1980 first solo ascent of Everest (North Ridge) without oxygen, in ‘The Crystal Horizon’ (1989)
“Great God, this is an awful place.”
- Captain Robert Falcon Scott, from ‘Captain Scott’s Diaries’ (1912)